Ok, remember those charcoal gray Italian wool flat front trousers I told you about? Of course you do, now here is where we revisit them, but in the context of the charcoal gray suit. Never seen a charcoal gray suit? Perhaps you've been watching Steve Harvey too long and there are a number of reasons why that is NOT good. Nevertheless, the charcoal gray suit as with the navy suit and the medium gray suit are a good starting point to your suiting wardrobe. Did you expect to read about 6 button purple numbers with platinum pinstripes and coattails with matching gators? Again see the above comment about Mr. Harvey. Get all of that Bishop Don Juan (though a genius entrepreneur he is a style icon he is not), Detroit Red, "My pocket square, tie and cuff links came in a set" thinking out of here. It has no place amongst the urbane. Think instead of Jason Statham, Pierce Brosnan and Fonzworth Bentley as the guidelines. I will break down the essential elements of the suit meaning the coat and trousers (shirt, tie and shoes will be for another time)
First; The Suit Coat
A man's suit coat is classified by the size of the chest. If you have never gotten measured I highly suggest (read: demand) that you do so. Now that you know what size your chest is you can pick out a size. They are listed in inches like 36, 37, 38 and so on and by length like Short for those of you 5'8" and below, Regular for those of you 5'9"-6'0" and Long for those of you 6'1" and above. For example, the size I wear is 39Long (I'm between 6'2"-6'3" and 185 lbs.) These are not concrete categories, they are simply guidelines and your weight and build should absolutely dictate what size you actually by rather than just your height. Remember buying a suit from a store like Men's Wearhouse or Banana Republic will almost always require alterations so if you have to buy a size bigger or smaller than what you thought, don't worry it CAN be fixed.
A suit coat has sleeves, lapels, a waist, shoulders, buttons (no more than 2 or 3) and if you're paying attention a vent or vents.
Your sleeves should end right at the bottom of your thumb as to allow that shirt cuff to show (again we'll address the shirt later). This is not up for negotiation, your coat sleeves end at the bottom of your thumb PERIOD.
Your lapels can be peak, notch or (for the Old Hollywood) shawl-collared, ask the salesman at the store for examples of each, he'll think you know your stuff and you will be able to pick what style you like best. When you button your coat (the top one on two button coats and the middle one on three button coats) your lapels should lay flat and smooth, they should not bow outward or lift off your chest and they should not just hang loosely. Your clothes SHOULD fit, they SHOULD NOT be too tight or too loose.
Your jacket should have a waist because guess what gents? Your waist is actually right below your belly button! That's right (we'll get into that in the pants section). Your jacket should accentuate this fact after all (you do keep in shape right?) Even those of you who could use a few extra sit ups, a jacket that has a defined waist can give the illusion that you're in much better shape than you are. Imagine that, Baggy clothes don't help you hide weight. Clothes that fit give your body a CONTOUR, a SILHOUETTE and that is the key to looking trim. There should be some space between your coat's sleeves and the your body. I guarantee you will look a thousand times better.
The shoulders of your coat should fall flat and smooth on your NATURAL shoulders, only football and hockey players wear shoulder pads and even they take them off to put on a suit.
2 or 3 buttons PERIOD. Don't even bother me with these 5 button+ monstrosities
Now, your coat should have vents. What are they for? Movement. Unvented coats are awkward to sit down in and binding if buttoned. Vents allow for ease of natural movement throughout the day. Once you have a vented suit you will never go unvented again. Center Vents or Side Vents are O.K. It depends on your style. The Center Vented suit is slightly more American and Side Vents are more European traditionally
Lastly, you should be able to put your arms down and grab around the bottom of your suit coat with your fingers. If your jacket goes past your fingertips, put it back. No exceptions
Now we tackle the pants. I see so many of young African American men who wear trousers as baggy as they wear their jeans complete with the requisite hanging off the rear end. It saddens me deeply. Gents, your trousers should NOT fit like your jeans because they are NOT jeans! The guidelines to the fit of your trouser is simpler than your coat but still widely ignored.
First, your trousers should NOT have pleats if you are slim. Pleats add weight and can make even the most in shape of us look full. Now, if you must have pleats, get the legs of your trousers tapered (actually always do this even if you have flat front trousers) because a properly tailored suit coat and baggy ill-fitting trousers is not a good look. And for the gentleman with a little weight on him, opt for the pleats but make sure the length of your trouser's legs is appropriate or your legs will appear shorter than they are (and I'm sure shorter than you want) Most pleats are double reverse and lots of designers make single pleat options which are a nice compromise. But remember, it doesn't even matter if they don't fit right in the first place.
Your trouser legs should hit the top of your shoes and break ONCE. They should not bunch up over your shoes! THIS IS BAD! After all once I show you the type of shoes that go with your properly tailored suit, you will want them to be seen.
Your trousers should also have cuffs at the bottom. Your cuffs correspond to your height. If you wear a Short or Regular suit then your cuffs should be 1 and 1/4 inches and if you wear a Long then your cuffs should be 1 and 1/2 inches. Easy right?
You do not have to pull up your pants to your natural waist (right below your belly button), I know its not the 60's. However, you WILL NOT sag your suit trousers PERIOD. Pull your damn pants UP!
These are the basics of the suit and if you go into a suiting store knowing all of these things, buying a suit will be much more enjoyable and the salesman will be very impressed with your wealth of knowledge...Stay tuned for the tutorial on shirts and shoes....
PS
Above is a great example of a great Navy suit you can by "off the rack" i.e. from a store, already made
Its from Banana Republic.
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